A Modest Proposal

Last month, I wrote on my blog that, if possible, the fashion industry should tinker with the idea of going back to the traditional Ready-To-Wear calendar. When I tossed around the idea, some people weren't receptive. That's why I was really surprised yesterday when Alessandro Michele of Gucci made that possibility a reality, but in a much radical way in my opinion. Gucci will go season-less and present only 2 shows a year: he poetically but forcefully said, "I will abandon the worn-out ritual of seasonalities and shows to regain a new cadence, closer to my expressive call." That's a strong statement that everyone should at least listen to.

Since last week, I have been working on an op-ed I originally intended to submit to BoF for consideration. I modeled it after Jonathan Swift's satirical writing, although I surely do not possess his literary caliber. Swift argued that, in order to tackle the national famine that swept his nation, it should strangle young children. Of course, he didn't mean it. He was throwing out this idea to urge his national leaders to take measures necessary to eradicate the national hunger. I can no longer send a submission to BoF because my then-inchoate idea now has gotten a proper form thanks to Alessandro Michele. Still, It is worth sharing what I had in mind. I hope you enjoy!

P.S.) I can tell from interviews I have been conducting, the industry is doing its best to come up with an answer to the current situation. And I know for sure it will find the answer.

A MODEST PROPOSAL

A photo of the 5th Avenue dotted with empty stores is a ghastly scene to watch. I am now throwing a glance at a Bergdorf shopping bag, absorbed in a macabre thought. With Barneys and Neiman Marcus capitulated to the engulfing waves, who knows? Who is at fault for this deplorable state of the sartorial kingdom, the once-invincible kingdom that’s seemingly no longer impregnable? Blame the virus that ravaged our lives and took from us our beloved ones? That would get us nowhere. By the way, why am I suddenly saying “we”? As you’ve correctly guessed at this point, I am not an industry person with insider’s knowledge. Well, that’s exactly the point. I am your average consumer, an archetypical audience whom brands should convince to open a now-sealed wallet. Thus, let me present you a modest proposal: Let’s get rid of pre-collections. It’s time to kill our own baby.

I already can hear jarring comments in outrage. Pre-collections might be a great source of revenue for brands. What about models, photographers, stylists, hair and makeup artists, casting directors and all those involved in the process? What kind of sacrifice am I even suggesting? However, the kingdom cannot regain its prowess unless we make the pie bigger, which sadly would require it to endure the momentary pain.

Creative directors have brought to the fore the vexing issue of product cycle. Natacha Ramsay-Levi of Chloé, Anthony Vaccarello of Saint Laurent, Dries Van Noten, and the list goes on. They are in unison in professing their view that the shelf life of a product nowadays is too short. Speaking of novelty, have pre-fall collections done a great job of showcasing sparkling creativity? There used to be an era when a pre-fall collection was a creature of its own. Now, flipping through magazines and lookbooks, I mostly see slight variations of brands’ regular ready-to-wear collections, replacing the ready-to-wear items and relegating them to early discount offers. Don’t get me wrong. I have designer friends who spend sleepless nights to make the simplest of a T-shirt, so I know vicariously how sweat-infused the process is and can be. But so be it. Will average consumers get it, and should they?

The challenge of rethinking a product cycle can’t be effectively addressed unless we take a holistic approach. The current product cycle is out of sync, as Dries Van Noten forcefully said in his open letter, since consumers buy fall clothes in spring or summer. Plus, it is even self-detrimental, eating away the profit margin of a product as brands provide vendor allowances to make up for the reduced margin on the part of their retailers. In department stores and on e-commerce platforms, early discounts are becoming the entrenching norm, in part because they know there will be a next round of new items on shelves brought to life by pre-fall collections. What’s more, new imaginations do not land on the minds of creative directors out of nowhere. How can we expect them to wow us with groundbreaking looks every two or three months? How can we rely on suppliers to prepare for the next season, almost well in advance of 4 or 5 months? Every link of the chain is interconnected. Just tinkering with one link might end up tearing asunder the whole organic chain. 

I hope this modest proposal can serve as a springboard to think seriously about the product cycle and the accompanying waste in the larger context of sustainability. I am turning 30 next year, and I have observed the industry as an admirer since 16. I still keep stacks of magazines in my room back in South Korea. I love the industry so much that I came to law school to study fashion law with the dream of helping those in need of help on their creative journeys. The industry has best talents at its arsenal. Times like this need greater thinking. Renovating the burning house isn’t enough, so let’s revamp. This is the best, or probably, the last chance we have, so I entreat to the kings and queens. Let’s take concerted actions. The sartorial indeed enriches our lives in various ways. But if we are to stay relevant and connected to the public at large, this whole creative enterprise should be something more than what’s on a price tag.