INTERVIEW SERIES: A CONVERSATION KYUNGWON CHOI - WHEN A FASHION STYLIST BECOMES A DESIGNER
Fashion stylists play an integral role in the fashion industry. By putting together season's fresh clothes and accessories, they come up with creative new looks that inspire us. I certainly think that fashion would be much less colorful without their unique visions. I always like to think of them as translators, translating "on-the-runway" into "off-the-runway".
Today, I start the season 2 of my interview series. My first guest is Kyungwon Choi, a stylist-turned-designer. She has styled some of the most successful South Korean actors and K-pop idols, and now is successfully running AVAM, her personal brand, as its founder and creative director. Her insights were really valuable because she experienced the both sides in fashion. I thank her tremendously for sharing her honest thoughts and opinions.
Hongjun Byun (HB): You are the founder and creative director of AVAM. Could you tell us about the aesthetics behind this brand?
Kyungwon Choi (KC): Sure! Ever since I was an aspiring stylist, fashion design was something that was always at the back of my mind. Some time after I started working as a stylist, that unrealized passion was rekindled in me. Launching a brand that reflects my sensibility then naturally became my next challenge. Speaking of aesthetics, I want my customers to see AVAM as a friend: someone who is with you in every moment of your life whether you notice it or not. These days, I constantly think about how to seamlessly incorporate that lifestyle component to the brand.
HB: As I alluded in the introduction, you have an interesting background. You started out as a stylist in the fashion industry, and then moved on to become a designer. (note: she still works as a stylist!) What were some advantages or disadvantages of taking this particular career path?
KC: Through my stylist career, I learned invaluable lessons and gained tremendous knowledge mostly by trial and error. Those experiences gave me the chance to build a firm foundation that I wouldn't have otherwise. I don't want to frame it as a disadvantage necessarily, but fashion design is a field of its own. I willingly reached out to designers for collaborations to complement areas I fell short of as a then-budding designer. I learned a lot from them in the process. Even now, I am learning new things every day. I think that's how I was able to come this far.
HB: I think I would do a great disservice to our audience if we don't talk more about styling. When did you start entraining the thought of becoming a fashion stylist?
KC: When I was in college, I was intrigued by the idea of presenting "looks" that reflect my own personal style. But do it with pieces of clothing designers already created for the public rather than making them on my own. To me, being a stylist seemed like a way to act on that idea. I understand this sounds vague and indefinite as a plan, but I embarked on a journey as a stylist precisely thanks to that vague and indefinite plan. I like to approach things from a simple perspective. Likewise, I started AVAM out of a simple wish that I want to design bags.
HB: Based on your experiences, what is styling at its core?
KC: I think there are two dimensions to styling. On one hand, you want to dress people in a way that reflects 100% your idea of what a good styling is. On the other hand, you also have to style people in light of who they are and for what occasions they dress up. These two require a totally different set of interpretations and approaches. For instance, to achieve the second goal, you really need to constantly talk with your clients. To get to the final work, you should be flexible with your clients and willing to take into consideration their opinions when necessary. But at the same time, once the job is completed, you should be confident about what you have come up with as the final work.
HB: You styled some of the internationally famous K-pop idols. I guess it's a somewhat different type of work from, say, editorial styling. What about this field that mesmerizes you?
KC: I usually style actors. When you style actors, the emphasis is on analyzing in depth the role an an actor is assigned to play. When it comes to idols, the emphasis is more on capturing their explosiveness. They only have 4 minutes at best to showcase what they've got. Styling has to reflect on that explosive energy they exude on stage. There's a certain exhilaration in knowing that, through my styling, the audience can better feel that positive energy. I also like the tension that's inherent in meticulous preparations. Also, K-pop idols now regularly appear on magazines and attend fashion events, so I am given the chance to style them off-stage, too. The job is really demanding to be honest, but, for me, it is a driving force. It just makes me keep going forward.
HB: Let's now change gear and talk more about your brand. Developing a personal brand requires both creativity and business acumen. The two seem to pertain to different realms, though. How do you find the right balance between the creative and the entrepreneurial?
KC: When it comes to the creative, I draw inspiration from the ordinary, things that happen in our daily life. That's how I came up with Tumblr bag, which is now one of the signature items of AVAM. However, not everyone clicks with what I produce. As a businessperson, I then should stay attentive to how to be more readily accessible to the larger public by giving my products a popular spin. I believe that AVAM will grow further if it stays true to its core identity, even if that means it takes longer to get there.
HB: Is that also the case in your stylist career?
KC: In terms of styling, creative looks are born when they reflect your own sensibility and aesthetics. Yes, you do have to listen to what others say about your works, and, in that sense, you sometimes have to make a compromise. However, at the end of the day, it has to be your philosophy that shines through your styling works. That way, you can create looks that inspire people. I know it's easier said than done. It, in fact, takes a lot of time and effort on your part.
HB: AVAM is known for the so-called "Jung Yumi Bag" (Note: Jung Yumi is a famous South Korean actor.) What's the story behind the bag?
KC: I had a sketch of a bag that I want to carry daily to my work. I had a chance to make a sample version of it. Then, Jung Yumi needed a bag for her appearance in a TV show, and she wore that sample bag. The bag drew a lot of attention to my surprise. Thanks to her, I could launch the brand way earlier than I thought. I am still thankful for her to this date (laughter).
HB: As a new brand, did you experience any difficulty in terms of marketing effort? Is your Instagram a part of that effort?
KC: Rather than using traditional advertisement platforms, I regularly upload posts on AVAM's instagram to build a brand image that shows what this brand is about in essence. I include AVAM items so that those who view my posts can learn some helpful styling tips that they can try in real life. Even when I'm busy, I try my best to set aside some time for uploading styling posts. To me, it's a way to communicate with my customers in a more authentic way.
HB: I'm pretty sure you run into copying issues over the course of running this brand. What's your opinion on copying in fashion?
KC: Fakes and knock-offs are so prevalent in South Korea. In fact, I had an infringer who not only copied my Tumblr bag but also misappropriated my look-books. Back then, I didn't know how to handle the situation, and, after several inquiries, I learned that I myself have to go after and notify the infringer to take down the website. I got exhausted in the process because, after all, this isn't a type of situation you want to caught up in. I understand that the line is blurry when it comes to copying. Still, infringers take advantage of that blurriness to confuse potential customers and eventually their purchasing decisions. It's just a sad reality that small designer brands like us routinely fall prey to such bad behavior.
HB: Here comes the final question! Any piece of advice for aspiring stylists?
KC: Ask yourself whether you have a dream that constantly captivates and motivates you. If you have that dream in your heart, you'll get rewarded for your effort. Also, take pride in what you do. Otherwise, you would falter in the face of adversity. Personally, I am so grateful for all the opportunities and the works that came out of those opportunities. I still have a lot to show, and I'm really exited about that. Do not sit idly and keep thinking about the next step in achieving your dream. If you do that, eventually you'll get to where you want to be.
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